Umm al Quwain

Written by Donovan April 9, 2020 Category: Asia, UAE Tags: , , , , , , , , Comments

The tiny emirate of Umm Al Quwain (pronounced ‘oom-al-ku-wayn‘) (UAQ), wrapped around an island-dotted lagoon, is in many ways the ‘anti-Dubai’. Its retro feel – without a flashy international resort or mega-mall to call its own – stands in sharp contrast to the glitz going on to the south. Much of the emirate’s 12km-long narrow peninsula, accessed by the busy strip-mall-lined King Faisal Rd, feels a bit desolate, though the handful of resorts on the peninsula tip are all well-maintained. The complete lack of glitz is because the emirate has no notable energy deposits to call its own. It is. good opportunity to visit UAQ for a sense of how the entire UAE might have looked if oil was not discovered.

Along the highway to Ras Al Khaimah, there is yet another amusement park – Dreamland Aqua Park. It is one of the oldest waterparks in the UAE. Spread over an area of 250,000 square metres, the water park was established in 1997. Since then it remains one of the most popular attractions in Umm Al Quwain. Offering more than 30 thrilling slides, rides, and attractions, this waterpark has everything you’d want in an affordable summer fun destination. (Ticket prices for adults : AED 160 and children: AED 100). There is also a family package for 2 adults and 2 children at AED 450.

The Ilyushin IL 76 cargo plane, now apparently being used as an advertising billboard, at the old Umm Al Quwain airfield.

In other news, there is a Russian cargo plane currently rusting at a derelict airstrip in UAQ. There are many contradictory accounts of its unhappy landing. And it made for a quick photo stop. After having read online about how to access this isolated airstrip, I drove to the place on the way to my next destination, Ras al Khaimah.

A little history behind this place, a IL76 Ilyushin cargo plane was once owned by notorious arms dealer Victor Bout. It was designed during Soviet times and used as a military transport plane. After the fall of USSR, it got commssioned for the Russian Airforce. It was then acquired by Air Cess.

Air Cess was owned by Sergei Bout, the brother of Victor Bout. Air Cess was first registered in Belgium but later moved to Sharjah. Air Cess was charged with several breaches of Civil Aviation Law, then it was renamed to Centrafican Airlines. In 2000s, UAE banned Victour Bout from entering in their country. Investigation disclosed the involvement of an organization into illicit arms shipments to conflict zones such as Liberia. His planes carried arms from Europe via Middle East to Africa. He was arrested and now imprisoned in a US jail for 25 years.

After reading about this exciting piece of history, it intrigued me to visit the abandoned plane more. I spent 15 minutes around the area, wary of the no photographs sign and also any presence of a security guard. Luckily there was no one who came out to scold me. I marvelled at the plane from all angles. If you’re an aviation enthusiast like me, then this plane will excite you and is worth checking out.

Back then, there was a ladder leading to the side door of the plane and so it was possible to get inside into the cargo space, then climb into the cockpit and from the cockpit through a hatch also to the top of the plane. However, when I visited, the ladder has been removed, probably to prevent people from climbing inside.

Whatever the story lies behind this aircraft, this is now a landmark to see in UAE. Tires and landing gear are sunken in the desert and all the windows covered with thick sand. Doors are left open with equipment and seats are missing which show the cruelty of life.

Search on google maps “Abandoned IL-76″ for the location of this place. Even though there have been reports of “no trespassing” signs being installed and a permanent presence of a security guard who shouts “no pictures” and prevents people from entering the site, I still managed to walk in like a boss in the mid afternoon. Make sure to park here 25.582412, 55.655452 and walk the rest. Do not park on the side of the highway directly in front of the plane, too dangerous!

For the history buff, do check out the Umm Al Quwain museum, which is housed in an ancient fortress like in the other emirates. Various rooms in this restored 1768 fort have been decked out to demonstrate traditional furnishings and Emirati culture, though the range of exhibits are sparse at best. Despite next-to-no information panels, the archaeological-finds room is a highlight: discoveries from the Ed Dour and Tell Abraq sites include two statues of headless falcons, a turtle-shaped stone plate and gorgeous, tiny human-shaped bone plaques.

I did not stay a night in UAQ because of its small size and relative lack of attractions. After spending about half an hour in this small emirate, it was time to move on to Ras al Khaimah where I would be staying for the next two nights.