On the surface, Hanoi’s food scene seems to be changing rapidly, with new venues rising and, in many cases, promptly sinking like a souffle. Restaurants, bars and cafes pop up and just as quickly it seems, shift to new locations, change hands or pull down their shutters for good. On the other hand, there are a few places in Hanoi that have stayed put for generations but have yet to gain global recognition. I would rather that they remain unknown like this, if not the throngs of international tourists may swarm to those Michelin guide restaurants and there goes the quality of the food.

The obscure banh cuon – steamed wet rice crepe- stall stationed at the corner of To Tich Street in the Old Quarter is a compelling example of how a humble dish can attract a band of hardcore followers, in this case for 60 years. Each day at about 5am, the veteran vendor who runs the place pedals into Hanoi with a basket of freshly made rice crepes strapped tightly behind the seat of her bike. By 6.30am, her stall is packed with patrons.

Pho Bat Dan, a family-run noodle shop in the Old Quarter, is a remnant of a bygone era. Every morning, Hanoians from just about every age group – usually with cash in one hand and newspaper in the other – wait patiently for pho in a queue that snakes along the outside of the shop.

Over the years, Pho Bat Dan has cemented its status on the city’s noodle scene. The concept is simple: come up with a winning recipe, stay in business for the long haul, build a loyal following and success is yours.