It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Jordan, and the place where Jesus was baptised. Even though I am a freethinker, I still was interested to visit this place. The Baptism Site “Bethany beyond the Jordan” (Al-Maghtas) is considered by the majority of the Christian Churches to be the location where John the Baptist baptised Jesus. The continuing pilgrimage and veneration of the site is a credible expression of the spirit and feeling attributed to it and the atmosphere, which the property conveys to the believers. 

Situated on the eastern bank of the River Jordan, nine kilometres north of the Dead Sea, the archaeological site consists of two distinct areas: Tell Al-Kharrar, also known as Jabal Mar-Elias (Elijah’s Hill) and the area of the churches of Saint John the Baptist near the river. Situated in a pristine natural environment the site is believed to be the location where Jesus of Nazareth was baptized by John the Baptist. It features Roman and Byzantine remains including churches and chapels, a monastery, caves that have been used by hermits and pools in which baptisms were celebrated, testifying to the religious character of the place. The site is a Christian place of pilgrimage.

You can get various Biblical souvenirs from this shop. It also sells white robes and other stuff in case you wish to be baptised. There are rosary beads, magnets, Holy water collected and purified from the river, necklaces, keychains etc. Any possible object featuring Jesus would be found here.

Excavations at Bethany Beyond the Jordan have uncovered remains of churches, chapels, and various structures dating back to different historical periods.

The Pope John Paul II has also visited the Bethany beyond the Jordan. This is depicted in this mosaic mural. Three Catholic popes: Saint John Paul II, Benedict XVI and Francis have all visited and prayed at this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

St John the Baptist Greek Orthodox Church, situated near the banks of the Jordan River, is a significant religious landmark for Orthodox Christians. This church is dedicated to St John the Baptist, the biblical figure renowned for baptising Jesus Christ. The church holds deep spiritual importance and served as a place of pilgrimage and devotion for believers around the world.

Its interior is covered in colorful Byzantine-Greek styled painted frescoes, and its floors have charming mosaic floors in the historic Greek and Roman opus tessellatum technique.

The separate bell tower has windows of cobalt blue. Not far from this church stand several other construction sites, evidence of an Armenian Christian Church and a Catholic Church being built on the grounds surrounding this holy religious  site. 

The guided tour takes about 45 minutes and since we were so near to the Israel border, there was military presence around. For devotees, they can choose to be baptised in the Jordan River. There is a souvenir shop selling the white robes and a small changing room by the river. For us, we just touched the cold water of the Jordan River with our hands as sort of an experience. Just across the river, it is the West Bank (probably a Palestinian village) and Israel flags flying in the background.

Across the Jordan river, it is the Palestinian-ruled Jericho on the West Bank. The area is under Israeli control, and is being upgraded after years of neglect, when it was a closed military border zone. Commonly known as “the oldest city in the world,” Jericho is an important historical, cultural, and political center located northwest of the Dead Sea.  Jericho is one of the earliest continuous settlements in the world, dating perhaps from about 9000 BC. Archaeological excavations have demonstrated Jericho’s lengthy history. The city’s site is of great archaeological importance; it provides evidence of the first development of permanent settlements and thus of the first steps toward civilisation.

How to get here?

Bethany Beyond the Jordan is about 55km from Amman, making it a one hour drive by car depending on traffic. There is no way to reach the site with public transport, and the closest you can get is 5km away at the Al Maghtas junction, on a Suweimah-bound bus from Amman.

Ticket prices: It is available as a top up of the Jordan Pass (needs to be purchased online) for 8JD. If purchased at the door, entrance fee is 12JD.