Uji (宇治) is a small city situated between Kyoto and Nara, two of Japan’s most famous historical and cultural centers. Its proximity to these two former capitals resulted in Uji’s early development as a cultural center in its own right.

Byodoin Temple

Uji is home to the UNESCO Heritage Site of Byodoin Temple, a striking example of Buddhist Pure Land (Jodo) architecture. Together with its garden, the temple represents the Pure Land Paradise and was influential on subsequent temple construction. Byodoin was initially built as a countryside retreat villa for the powerful politician Michinaga and only became a temple many years later.

Michinaga’s son turned Byodoin into a temple and ordered the construction of its most spectacular feature, the Phoenix Hall. It was nicknamed “Phoenix Hall” because of its shape and the two phoenix statues on its roof. Modelled after the palace in the Land of Happiness, it features unique architecture and consists of the Chudo (central hall), left and right wing corridors, and a tail corridor. The hall is now featured on the back of the Japanese ten yen coin.

Byodoin’s unique treasure house is constructed mostly underground to not distract from the Phoenix Hall. It exhibits an assortment of the temple’s most valuable artifacts, including dozens of designated important cultural properties and national treasures. There is an exhibition room which recreates colour paintings of the inside of the Phoenix Hall and a hall where visitors can watch computer graphic videos produced with the latest digital technology. With its sprawling grounds, Byodoin temple and its garden are suitable for a relaxing stroll, especially during autumn to admire the changing colour of the leaves.

Mampukuji

Besides Byodoin Temple, there is another temple of historical importance to check out in Uji – Mampukuji. Mampukuji’s temple buildings, statues and gardens are heavily influenced by the architectural style of China’s contemporary Ming Dynasty and retain a much more Chinese appearance than other Buddhist temples in Japan. Although difficult to appreciate by the regular tourist, the temple grounds are laid out in the shape of a dragon when viewed from above. This temple is a 5-10 minute walk from Keihan Obaku Station.

Food and shopping

Since we were in Green tea town, it was was mandatory to have some green tea products. Apparently, Uji is home to the famous green tea (matcha). While Kozanji Temple in Kyoto is believed to be the original site of tea cultivation in Japan, Uji’s green tea started to increase in popularity from the 1100s due to its superior quality.

For lunch, we had lunch at this quaint Japanese restaurant 京料理 宇治川旅館｜宇治 (Address: Renge-2-2 Uji, Kyoto 611-0021) which had views overlooking the Uji river. The weather was slightly chilly, so this inn with a second-floor restaurant provided some respite. Their lunch set meals were going at JPY 1600-1800. We had a delicious meal of green tea soba noodles and udon, with accompaniment of inari sushi sprinkled with green tea powder, miso soup and tempura. It was an absolutely wholesome meal, coupled with the picturesque views outside as we slurped our noodles in delight.

After lunch, we took a walk along the main street of Uji, Omotesando, the 300 metre lane that approached Byodoin Temple. Here is the best place to take a look at the various green tea products being sold in the small shops, most of which are family-run or to purchase your tea and tea-related souvenirs. There was also a store selling freshly ground matcha powder. Green tea is so versatile that it can be used to make curry, soba noodles, mochi, ice cream and sweets.

What is a visit to Kyoto/ Uji without trying the delicious green tea ice cream. To coincide with autumn celebrations, this store even put on decorative sweets in the shape of maple leaves on my ice cream. The bittersweet taste of the green tea ice cream was heavenly and just melted in my mouth. Of course, not everyone likes green tea, but for a fanatic like me, I was in paradise.

To end off our day, we had another green tea dessert when we were back in Kyoto. We visited the famous Kyo Hayashiya cafe (Address: 6F Takase Bldg., 105 Nakajima-cho, Kawara-machi Higashi-iru, Sanjo-dori, Nakagyo, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto). This is a sweets cafe that is produced by a long standing tea house in Kyoto that boasts a history of over 260 years since its foundation. Starting with Japanese teas like matcha (powdered green tea) and hojicha (roasted green tea) that you can also enjoy among others.

We highly recommend the matcha parfait and the mochi, ice cream, rice ball set. The former has a scoop of matcha ice cream that sits atop matcha soft-serve, generous cubes of matcha jelly, and a wafer biscuit. The latter comes in a neat plate with a scoop of matcha ice cream, shirotama-zensai (red bean with mochi dumpling), matcha coated mochi cubes and a cup of houjicha. What a perfect way to end off the night!

How to get there?

Uji is accessible on the JR Nara line and the Keihan Uji line from Osaka.

Byodoin is a 10-15 minute walk from JR Uji Station or Keihan Uji Station.