Salalah, the capital of the Dhofar region, is a colourful, subtropical city that owes much of its character to Oman’s former territories in East Africa. Indeed, flying into Salalah from Muscat, especially during the khareef (rainy season), it is hard to imagine that Oman’s first and second cities share the same continent.

From mid-June to mid-August, monsoon clouds from India engulf Salalah in fine drizzle. As a result, the stubble of the encircling plain and the desert escarpment beyond is transformed into a verdant oasis where huge herds of camels graze alongside cattle and goats in the engulfing mists. Gulf visitors flock to Salalah at this time to enjoy the long-running tourism festival and to picnic under the rain clouds. All year round, however, Salalah’s coconut-fringed beaches, banana plantations and sociable Dhofari culture offer an attractive flavour of Zanzibar in the heart of the Arabian desert.

We had wanted to experience the khareef festival but we had arrived in Salalah too late, as there was not much rain in mid-September. The drive down from the highway to Salalah was very scenic, we were surrounded by thick fog which I mistook to be pollution at first. Due to the geographical location where the hot desert meets the sea over the Dhofar mountains, condensation quickly occurs and thus forms the fog. It is dry and misty, which can affect the drivers’ visibility, so it is advisable to slow down when approaching the roads, especially when going downhill. There may also be camels walking along the road, so drivers need to pay attention to them.

While northern Oman has its dates, southern Oman is home to coconut and banana trees. The route from the clock tower to the Crowne Plaza Hotel winds through lush plantations of coconut, papaya, banana and mango. Along the way, there are stalls set up under the coconut canopy selling fresh coconuts with straws and the prices are well worth stopping for.

Oman and Zanzibar ties

Zanzibar, a series of islands off the coast of East Africa once famed as the main centre of the slave market, was absorbed into the Omani empire in the 1690s when the Imam of Oman took it from the Portuguese. Over subsequent centuries its importance to Oman grew, until in 1837 the greatest Omani sultan of the 19th century, Said bin Sultan, decided to make it his main place of residence, building fine palaces and gardens there. On his death in 1856 his sons had a dispute over who should inherit the empire, which was eventually resolved with the help of British diplomacy. One son inherited Zanzibar and its East African territories, while the other son inherited Muscat and Oman. Today, Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous part of Tanzania.

Al Baleed Archeological site

One of the attractions in Salalah is this archeological site. The ancient ruins of Al Baleed belong to the 12th-century trading port of Zafar. Frankincense was shipped from here to India in exchange for spices. Frankincense is all over the country, burnt for its fragrance at stores and sold as souvenirs at the markets. Little is known about the port’s demise, but the excellent on-site Museum of the Frankincense Land charts the area’s settlement since 2000 BC and illustrates the nation’s maritime strength, including its recent renaissance. The museum was well-maintained and informative. We got to see the transformation of Oman from the past to its present situation. The site includes several kilometres of landscaped paths and the adjoining reed beds make for good birdwatching.

Not to be confused with the one in Muscat, Salalah also has the Sultan Qaboos mosque. It is located in the city center and is an architectural wonder. It has two big domes, and two tall minarets, all of which are white and ornamented with golden shapes. The mosque’s interior is decorated with beautiful lanterns, the walls are engraved in unique patterns and the floor is covered with green rugs. Reflecting the wonderful Omani architecture, the Sultan Qaboos Mosque is one of the must-visit attractions.

For a day trip outside the city, why not visit the beach? Oman has a coastline of almost 1700km. Al Mughsail beach is located in Salalah in southern Oman. It has beautifully white sands, and crystal clear waters. What adds to the beach’s beauty is the green mountain that surrounds it and the natural fountains that burst out of its rocky edges.

In town, people also visit the public beaches. It is quite popular among locals, who like to go there to catch clams and shellfish to sell it for some profits. The beach is located near the souk.

For those interested in shopping, they can visit the Gold Souk which has many shops selling all kinds of jewelery. Even if you are not buying anything, you can do window shopping and admire the dazzling items on display.

Just half an hour away from the town of Salalah, the Marneef Cave is another popular place to visit. The charm of this place starts with the the surrounding mountain that has several benches for tourists to enjoy the marvelous view of the beach and the blowholes – Al Marneef Blowholes. These holes in the ground are known to be sea caves, through which sea waters come, creating beautifully high fountains that splash water around them. During the monsoon season, the blowholes seem to emit a larger volume and height of water which will wow the visitors. Between the white sandy beach, the magnificent mountain, the deep cave and the charming fountains, Al Marneef Cave is the perfect escape for all nature lovers.

Lastly, we drove along the mountains towards Yemen, in order to appreciate the mountains and to satisfy my curiosity. Although I did not make it to the border as it was a two-hour drive, I still had fun navigating the hairpin bends. As you approach the borders of Saudi Arabia and Yemen, you need to be careful of security forces at police checkpoints and respond calmly to instructions given by the Omani military police if you encounter them. Sometimes there may be police checkpoints so do not speed on the highways.

I really hope to visit Yemen one day, when the country has become more stable and flights to Scootra are not so expensive. Currently, a return flight from Cairo to Salalah cost $1200 just for a short distance.