Nairobi is beginning to blossom. Once the capital of British East Africa, the city saw heavy modernisation after independence in 1963, but still maintains some traditions of old: high tea and breezy terrace bars; historic hotels and lush private gardens. And the city surprise – it boasts fantastic Indian food (a remnant of turn-of-the-century railway labourers), a leisurely cafe culture and a range of international cuisine. You may go to Nairobi for the national wildlife parks, but you will stay for the underground art and eclectic food.

Restaurants

Ronalo’s Food | Kimathi Street, Nairobi 00100

A restaurant with a story – Ronalo started out making chapatis for construction workers, then built a neighbourhood shack and finally moved to the city centre, offering African dishes served in a simple, clean environment.

Tamarind Restaurant | Karen Road, Nairobi 00200

Tamarind is a lovely seafood restaurant, with candles illuminating white tablecloths and dim overhead lighting. Tamarind offers a great selection of local and international wine too. Their speciality is seafood, but they also have meat and vegetarian dishes.

Amaica Restaurant | Getathuru Garden, Off Peponi road, Nairobi 00100

Western Kenyan cuisine is an offer at homely Amaica. Highlights include sour milk from a gourd, smoked beef and tilapia in a tomato, garlic, onion and coriander sauce, where diners can eat with their hands. Some of the items are unfamiliar to the Western palate, but all the better for it! An excellent choice for anybody willing to move slightly outside their culinary comfort zone.

Mediteranneo Restaurant | 9 West, Westlands, Nairobi

Mediteranneo is one of the few classic Italian restaurants in Nairobi, with a huge menu and great wine. The atmosphere is also Italian, with flowers and a sunny courtyard. The service is excellent, and the fair is authentic Italian, with freshly imported antipasti, house-made pasta, and hearty main courses all available.

Galleries

The Godown Arts Centre | Dunga Road

Nairobi’s arts scene owes a lot to this converted warehouse, which houses 10 different studios where some of the city’s new artists work and sell. It also hosts performing arts, music and workshops.

Rahimtulla Museum of Modern Art | 2nd Parklands Avenue

Relocated to a spacious home on 2nd Parklands, it is the most established modern art gallery in Nairobi, with a collection of contemporary African art and a children’s gallery, sculpture garden and a performance space.

Nairobi National Museum | Museum Hill

This museum is worth a visit for those interested in the history and culture of East Africa and Kenya in particular. The museum comprises exhibitions on culture, natural history and some contemporary art.

Gallery Watatu | Gallery Watatu Ltd P.O. Box 41855 (Closed until further notice)

Founded in 1969 by a group of African artists, Watatu established itself as an arts hub and now exhibits a huge range of local artists and sculptors. Frequented mostly by in-the-know expats and collectors, the gallery also hosts art-related events.