Construction cranes have become a constant in Mexico City a ultramodern office towers rise at a rapid rate, with restaurants, hotels and museums taking shape in their shadows. Amid the bustle, the Museo Soumaya – home to the art collection of Carlos Slim, one of the world’s wealthiest men – now ranks as the country’s most-visited art museum. The action isn’t limited to the big business districts though. The Centro Historico is rolling out the red carpet with pedestrian-only streets and restored palaces, while the nearby neighbourhoods of Condesa and Roma are seeing chic establishments set up shop in storefronts more than a century old.

Explore

Newly renovated buildings in Centro Historic include the 17th century palace-turned hotel Downtown Mexico, where you can sample chocolates in flavours such as Mexican coffee and banana bubble gum at Que Bo! More traditional sweets tempt at lost-in-time candy purveyor Dulceria de Celaya, in business since 1874. Nearby, peek inside and buy postcard stamps at the belle époque Palacio Postal.

Take a break

Head to the elegant Condesa area to escape the crowds and enjoy a lunch of enchiladas – hibiscus flower or chicken with mole negro – in the rooftop garden at Azul Condesa. Then stroll through peaceful Parque Mexico and its popular dog park, where you will likely find dozens of well-trained pups playing in snoozing under the sun.

Shop

Creatives converge on the shops, galleries and cafes in Roma. Browse through books at El Pendulo, then visit celebrity chef Monica Patiño’s Delirio, a gourmet store/restaurant, for a treat to take home. Or grab an orejita (elephant ear) from the acclaimed La Puerta Abierta Bakery. Nearby, the cultural centre Galeria Casa Lamm hosts edgy art exhibitions, with most works for sale.

Drink up

Roma is also home to some of the city’s best cantinas, including the 1950s institution Salon Covadonga, where you can enjoy refreshments alongside regulars playing dominos, and La Clandestina, a charming hole in the wall with 22 varieties of mescal. Hit Cabera 7 to see and be seen, or grab a late-night bite and Mexican craft beer at Conde Sandwich, (try the serrano ham on ciabatta), a cozy newcomer to the neighbourhood.