From Gyumri in Armenia, I decided to cross the border to Georgia through another crossing to go to Kutaisi, the third largest city in Georgia. Another post will be written about how to cross the Armenia-Georgia border. I had taken a marshrutka (minivan) from Akhalkalaki.

Kutaisi is the traditional rival of Tbilisi for capital status, and has since the days of the Golden Fleece been considered the capital of Western Georgia (then Ancient Colchis). Kutaisi may be the country’s third largest city, but it does not come even close to Tbilisi’s present day size and wealth. Since the Georgian government decided to move their parliament to Kutaisi, there has been a lot of work on restoring streets, buildings, parks and monuments and the city has become much safer.

But a visit here is nonetheless near mandatory to see the magnificent Bagrati Cathedral, and Gelati Monastery, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and have commanding views from the mountain slopes over the city and the Rioni river.

When I reached Kutaisi, it was evening time and the sky was turning dark. I had secured a place with a couchsurfer and took a public bus to his place which was located near the city centre. When I reached that neighbourhood, everything was pitch black as there was a large blackout in the city. I walked along the dark streets, feeling quite unsafe, to find my host’s place. I walked into the driveway and there were dogs barking wildly. I was afraid they may attack me. When I rang the doorbell, a scruffy looking guy opened the door and he had forgotten that he was going to host me. He thought for a while, then looking at the dark apartment, he told me that it was not possible to host me as he was ‘not feeling well’. I was quite upset because he seemed like a nice person when we were conversing online and now he just rejected me at the door. I am gonna leave a negative reference for this guy. So I wandered along the streets with my backpack to look for a hostel as an alternative. I knocked on a few doors, but it seems like the hostel was full, had closed down or it was not operating in winter. Finally, using my offline maps, I found an apartment for 50GEL per night. The blackout had lasted for half an hour and now all the lights in the city were finally back on. The guest-house owner even gave me a pastry and homemade wine for dinner, which I did not expect. It was nice of her. After that, I was quite bored and wanted to explore the city at night, so I managed to meet a German traveller who was also in the city. I spent a total of 2 day in Kutaisi and after that it was time to move on.

What to see?

Bagrati cathedral : It is about a 30 minute walk from the main square. From the Jachvis Khidi (Chain Bridge), you can walk up cobbled streets to the cathedral on Ukimerioni Hill. The cathedral was built in 1003 by Bagrat III, with a tall drum and pointed dome resting on four free-standing pillars. In 1692 a Turkish explosion brought down drum, dome and ceiling to leave the cathedral in a ruined state. It was fully renovated between 2009 and 2012, with a mix of old and new stone and a few steel sections.

Gelati Monastery : Buses leave from behind the theatre at 8 and 11 AM; at 2, 4 and 6 PM. Cost 1 Lari. Duration of the ride is 20 to 25 minutes. A masterpiece of the Georgian Golden Age, Gelati was founded in 1106 by King David IV of Georgia. It signifies the value of the Georgian Christian orthodox religion. Inside the monastery is full of murals and an abundance amount imagery surrounding the interior of the church. It was one of the first monastery in Georgia and adds great value to the Georgian culture and beauty.

Prometheus and Sataplia caves : These two caves belong to Imereti Protected Areas, and are quite close – you can easily visit both in one day. Driving through dense forests of West Georgian mountains, you’ll suddenly run into a tourist center of Prometheus cave. There is a worldwide known legend of Prometheus, who stole fire from the gods, for which he was punished and chained to Khvamli Mountain, which can be seen from Prometheus Cave. I personally did not visit this place due to time constraints but I have heard good reviews of it from fellow travelers.

Botanical garden : Kutaisi is filled with green spaces in the city, with wide boulevards and lush gardens that serve to purify the air of the city. The most interesting plant there is a giant oak-tree; it is 400 thousand years old and has turned into a miniature chapel. The hollow that has been transformed into a chapel, seizes almost the quarter of the entire tree, and three people may freely fit inside.

Kutaisi State History Museum : The museum, established in 1921, keeps more than 150 thousand items of Georgian cultural heritage. Bronze Age and Antiquity period monuments – archaeological discoveries from western Georgia, rare samples Georgian, Roman, Byzantine and Oriental history, everyday life and cultural rare objects, collection of oldest epigraphs and Georgian manuscripts.

Other than that, Kutaisi is pretty much a relaxed city and 2-3 days is enough to discover everything in the city.

Where to stay?

Address: Jacob Gogebashvili Street 1, Kutaisi

I stayed at House 1899 which was a nice, bright apartment with double bed and private bathroom. It is 2 min walk to the city centre which is really convenient, and about 20 min by bus to the bus station. It is indeed value-for-money and the owners of the guesthouse are kind. Cost for one night stay during low season is 50GEL (~S$25).