Iguazu Falls should definitely be on your South American bucket list. Straddling between the Argentinean and Brazilian border, it is indeed a natural wonder of the world.
The amount of water pouring from these falls to the Iguazu River is equally staggering. On average, about 1,500 cubic meters of water flows every second. Depending on the time of the year, the rate of water flow can be as much as 13,000 cubic meters per second — enough to fill five Olympic swimming pools — especially during the rainy months of November to March.
I took a flight from Buenos Aires to Iguazu for my weekend trip because it only takes 2h, versus 18h by bus which I don’t have the time to spare. Also, I managed to get a return ticket on Aerolineas Argentina which was not too expensive, $200 return, compared to the bus which is $120, so I felt that it was better as I saved time and I had more time to explore Iguazu without having to suffer on the long bus ride.It was my first time departing from Aeroparque, the domestic airport of Buenos Aires, but my return trip will be landing at Ezeiza, the airport that I was used to.
Iguazu in Argentina is so much more expensive than the Brazilian side. For example, in Argentina, the entrance ticket is $42 (prices in June 2013) and the bus ticket to the park is $7.50 while in Brazil it is $28 and $2 respectively. The bus in Brazil even goes to the airport but not in Argentina.
On the first evening that I arrived, I shared a taxi with a Porteño couple who had a baby girl. It costs 120p for the ride of about 25km to the city centre. As a solo traveler I would not have taken the taxi, but luckily I managed to speak to an Argentinean family about my situation to share the cost for the taxi to town.
Upon reaching the city centre, I searched around for a reasonably priced hostel, most of which were above $20 which was beyond my budget. I finally found one for $17, as recommended in my Lonely Planet guidebook and it was conveniently situated near the bus terminal. For dinner, I had pizza, it was supposedly an all-I-can-eat pizza but I could only finish 7/8 of the pizza. Luckily there were 4 flavours: onion, ham, tomatoes and plain cheese, but after awhile I was sick of eating the pizza. It does not taste good and there was too much dough. I think that was their tactic, to make the customer full quickly so they would order less. For those with a bigger budget, you can visit one of the many Argentinean steakhouses or pubs along the Main Street for a meal.
The next day, I set off to explore the Argentinean side of Iguazu Falls. It costs $7.50 for the bus ride to the park and the admission fee is $42.50 for foreigners. There was a difference in pricing, depending if you are from Iguazu town, other parts of Argentina, South American (Mercosur) or a foreign visitor. There was no student price at all.
At the Argentinean side, I walked along the upper and lower trail, the Devil’s throat and the green trail. The Devil’s throat is the most spectacular because it is the largest and most voracious of the series of falls. There was a free train ride from the Central to Cataratas station, but I chose to walk the 2km and avoided the queue. There were many people at Devil’s throat busily snapping away. The mist of the falls made many cameras wet and people were either having umbrellas or wearing ponchos which made them less wet. Somehow the mist from the waterfalls had a calming effect on me and I marveled at this wonderful natural wonder of the world. I got other tourists to help me to take photos since I was traveling alone.
The tourist train
Argentinean side of the falls
Actually, after visiting Devil’s throat which is the main highlight, that is about all for the park. I decided to hike at Sendero Macuco which led to a mini waterfall. Although the fall is not as magnificent as the Devil’s throat, but I enjoyed the hike in plain nature which also made my shoes muddy and dirty.
Mini falls in the superior trail
In the afternoon around 4pm, I crossed the border to Brazil. This is my second stamp of Brazil in my passport because 2 weeks ago, I had visited Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. I met 2 Dutch guys who were going to Paraguay and a German dude who was going to São Paulo. The Dutch guys actually collect car brochures and sell them for a living. At first, the 3 of them were speaking in German and I thought all of them were from Germany. They then told me that Dutch and German are pretty similar, so they could understand each other, just like Spanish and Portugese.
I found a hostel in the town of Foz do Iguacu for about $20 and went to a Brazilian churrascaria (BBQ) for dinner. It costs $40 but this restaurant had many awards and recommendations, so I decided to give it a try. The churrascaria in São Paulo was much more expensive ($60 and above) so I didn’t try it when I was there. I had all kinds of meat from chicken, beef, pork, lamb and fish. The most interesting one that I tried was chicken heart which tasted not too bad. There was also a buffet bar serving rice, soup, fries, salad and dessert. It was really a very filling dinner for me, and I also ate quite a lot because I did not eat much for lunch. At night, I tried caipirinbeer at my hostel which is a mixture of caipirinha (the national drink of Brazil) and beer.
On my last day of my trip, I went to Foz do Iguaçu (the Portugese name). In my opinion, I preferred the Brazilian side because it gave a better overall view of the falls and I got wetter from the mist and spray of the falls, but there was nothing much to do at the Brazilian side except the short trail to the Devil’s throat (Garganta del Diablo). Most people left within two hours. There was a bus ride included in the price of the ticket which took us from the visitor centre to the Devil’s Throat trail. There was also an elevator which took us to the top of a tower for more paranomic views of the falls. And how coincidental, I met the Argentinean family today whom I shared the cab with from the airport to town on the first day. I wanted to go to Paraguay as well because the falls shares a triborder with Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay, but unfortunately I needed a visa to enter Paraguay. For my two days spent at the falls, I did not get to see any rainbow sadly because the sun did not shine brightly enough, the skies were quite gloomy.
Brazilian side of the falls is nicer in my opinion
Shuttle bus from the entrance of the park to the falls
After lunch, I crossed the border back to Argentina for my flight back to Buenos Aires. Being on a tight budget, I did not want to take the taxi from town to the airport. I needed to go to the airport in Iguazu, Argentina, but there was no public bus, so I took the $7.50 shuttle bus to the falls and dropped off halfway at the road leading to the airport to walk about 10km. I had planned to walk all the way to the airport as I had a lot of time to spare. I was walking when a taxi drove past and offered to give me a lift to the airport. I told him I don’t have money and he said never mind. He happened to be going to the airport to pick up a passenger and he gave me a free ride which I am very much thankful for.
Getting there
Iguazu’s remote location makes flying the most practical way of getting here.
From Buenos Aires, it’s a 90-minute flight to Puerto Iguazu in the Argentinean side.
From Rio de Janeiro, it takes two hours to fly to the Brazilian town of Foz de Iguacu.
Most tourists stay in either town when visiting Iguazu Falls. Both offer ample dining and hotel options for every type of traveler. They’re also relatively close to the falls — about 12 kilometers away.
Here are two of the hotels that offer the best views of the falls on both sides:
Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, Rodovia Br 469, Km 32, Iguassu National Park, Foz do Iguassu, Brazil; +55 45 2102 7000
Sheraton Iguazu Resort & Spa, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Iguazu National Park 3370, Argentina; +54 3757 49 1800