Welcome to Azerbaijan! This is the Land of Fire and the Pearl of the Caucasus, a land where eastern colours combine magnificently with western progress. Azerbaijan is a country of unique nature, unmatched culture, centuries of history with its customs and traditions and fine cuisine; a place which will satisfy the expectations of the most sophisticated gastronomists, and finally, it is the country of Caucasian hospitality and friendliness.

Baku was the last stop on my one month trip and I had low expectations about it as I heard it was an expensive and boring city. However, to my surprise, it turned out to exceed my expectations and it felt like the Dubai of the Caucasus because of the modern skyscrapers and many ambitious projects that try to put Azerbaijan on the world map, be it hosting of the Formula One Grand Prix to the theatre along the bay that looks like Sydney Opera House.

Azerbaijan’s capital is the architectural love child of Paris and Dubai…albeit with plenty of Soviet genes floating half-hidden in the background. Few cities in the world are changing as quickly and nowhere else in Eurasia do East and West blend as seamlessly or as chaotically. At its heart, the Unesco-listed Old City (İçəri Şəhər) lies within an exotically crenelated arc of fortress wall. Around this are gracefully illuminated stone mansions and pedestrianised tree-lined streets filled with exclusive boutiques. In the last decade, countless towers have mushroomed, dwarfing or replacing tatty old Soviet apartment blocks. Some of the finest new builds are jaw-dropping masterpieces. Meanwhile romantic couples canoodle their way around wooded parks and hold hands on the Caspian-front bulvar (promenade), where greens and opal blues make a mockery of Baku’s desert-ringed location.

Old City (İçəri Şəhər)

The Old City is my favourite place to roam around Baku because of the narrow winding alleys and several historic buildings.

Inside the Old City, the highest point is the Maiden Tower. This tapering 29m stone tower is Baku’s foremost historical icon with rooftop views surveying Baku Bay and the Old City. Possibly millennia old, its original date of construction is the subject of much debate, though much of the present structure appears to be 12th century. The Azeri name, Qız Qalası, is usually rendered ‘Maiden’s Tower’ in English, leading to plenty of patently fictitious fairy tales. Do go up the tower to enjoy views of the city. Price: 2 manats

Within the Old City is also the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. It is a 15th-century palace built by the Shirvanshahs and described by UNESCO as “one of the pearls of Azerbaijan’s architecture”. The complex contains the main building of the palace, Divanhane, the burial-vaults, the shah’s mosque with a minaret, Seyid Yahya Bakuvi’s mausoleum, a portal in the east, Murad’s gate, a reservoir and the remnants of a bath house.

The palace is depicted on the new 10 manat banknote issued since 2006.

At night, the Old Town comes alive with all the lights. And since Christmas was approaching, the streets were decked with beautiful lights and many people doing their last minute shopping. Although Azerbaijan is a predominantly Muslim country, I was surprised by the Christmas lights and atmosphere in December when I visited. There was a mosh pit area which allowed people to experience a concert-like atmosphere and rock their bodies to the sound of live music. Even Santa Claus and Santarina were present to pose for photos. They were definitely a hit with children.

Bulvar

Full of cafes, fountains and fairground rides, the central sweep of seafront park is eternally popular with families, amateur musicians and courting couples. Striking modernist buildings here include the International Muğam Centre, the Baku Business Centre and the four-storey Park Bulvar Mall. Crossing the main road to reach the promenade area can be awkward but there’s a handy underpass in front of the photogenic old Puppet Theatre. Enjoy the breeze of the Caspian Sea as you walk down the Bulvar.

If you are interested in carpets, do visit the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum. Some people have said that it is no worth the visit, but the exterior is nice for photos. You will also get good pictures of the Flame Towers from here.

Flame Towers

Since Azerbaijan is also known as the Land of Fire, these towers are aptly named to represent the country. Completed in 2012, this trio of sinuous blue-glass skyscrapers forms contemporary Baku’s architectural signature. The three towers range from 28 to 33 storeys – so huge that they’re most impressive seen from a considerable distance, especially at night when they form a vast palate for a light show which interchanges between fire effect, pouring water and the national flag.

Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre

It is named after the first president of Azerbaijan. Vast and jaw-droppingly original, this Zaha Hadid building is a majestic statement of fluid 21st-century architecture forming abstract waves and peaks that seem to melt together. The real delight is simply pondering and photographing the extraordinary exterior from ever-changing angles. The interior hosts concerts and several exhibition spaces including a permanent collection featuring the gifts received by Azerbaijan’s presidents.

Do check out Baku when you are in the Caucasus or Russia. It is a surprisingly modern city with lots of sights to see and with the simplified evisa system, it is now much easier to visit the country. Stay tuned for more posts on Sheki and how to apply for your online visa for Azerbaijan (which is really easy!).