Tana, as the capital is universally known, is all about eating, shopping, history and day trips. The town centre itself, with its pollution and dreadful traffic, puts off many travellers from staying, but bypassing the capital altogether would be a mistake: Tana has been the home of Malagasy power for three centuries and there is a huge amount of history and culture to discover by visiting its sacred hills.

Haute Ville

The rova (fortified palace) is the imposing structure that crowns the highest hill of Tana. The palace was designed for Queen Ranavalona I by a Scottish mis- sionary named James Cameron. The outer structure, built in 1867 for Ranavalona II, was made of stone, with a wooden roof and interior. A number of monarchs are buried there. Gutted in a fire in 1995, it is still under restoration. However, with a compulsory guide, we were able to tour the palace compounds and have a good view of the city from the top.

Since it was a few days leading up to the Independence Day celebrations, the whole city was decorated with Malagasy flags and there was also a huge fairground, with amusement rides to face painting stalls. Locals gathered in groups to have a fun day out, and this led to huge traffic jams along the main avenue as some of the roads were diverted for the celebrations.

Presidential Palace

Another historic building to check out is the Presidential Palace. This beautiful 19th-century manor was an official French residence for many years. It became the Madagascan presidential palace in 1975 and remained so until president Didier Ratsiraka decided to build a more modern complex about 15km south of the capital in 1991. The mansion remains an official residence but is generally quiet. No photos were allowed.

We stayed at Havana resort in Tana, a 5-minute walk from Lake Anosy. Analakely Market is 700 m away and Independence Avenue is a 12-minute walk from the hotel. 

Lake Anosy

Lake Anosy is an artificial lake with a large monument in the middle of it, located in the southern part of the capital city of the Republic of Madagascar, Antananarivo. The so-called Monument aux Morts, also known as the Monument to the Dead, is a French-built memorial in order to commemorate the fallen soldiers during the First World War. Designed by the sculptor Barberis and architect Perrin in 1927, it is the most recognizable feature of the lake. We wanted to walk to the monument to take a closer look, but it was closed to public due to the Independence Day celebrations.

Ambohimanga

A drive through the outskirts of northern Antananarivo will take you to the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga, the country’s only cultural Unesco site and a place of great significance. It includes the ruins of a fortified royal city as well as a burial site, and it remains an important place of pilgrimage for the people of Madagascar.

Ambohimanga (‘blue hill’ or ‘beautiful hill’) was the original capital of the Merina royal family. Even after the seat of government was shifted to Antananarivo for political reasons, Ambohimanga remained a sacred site. Poised atop the hill is Ambohimanga’s Rova (admission Ar 10000), the fortress-palace of the all-powerful Merina king Andrianampoinimerina. The fortress was constructed using cement made from sand, shells and egg whites – 16 million eggs were required to build the outer wall alone.

Inside the compound stands the blackened wood hut (1788) that was King Andrian- ampoinimerina’s palace. The original was thatched, but French engineer Jean Laborde replaced the grass roof with more durable wooden tiles in the 19th century.

Next door to King Andrianampoinimerina’s hut, in a striking style contrast, is the elegant summer ̈palace of Queen Ranavalona I (r 1828–1861), constructed in 1870 by Laborde (who was thought to be Ranavalona’s lover). It’s been beautifully restored and has original European-style furniture inside.

Ambohimanga is still revered amongst many Malagasies as a sacred site, and you will see offerings (zebu horns, blood, sweets, honey and small change) at various shrines around the compound.

History of Tana

A little bit of history about Tana. As the home of the Merina, Madagascar’s largest and most powerful ethnic group, Tana has featured heavily in the country’s evolution since its founding in the early 17th century. Its journey to become the capital of the first unified Kingdom of Madagascar in 1810 was an arduous one, with numerous tribal wars and the continual redrawing of boundaries. By the time the French arrived on the scene in 1897, Tananarive (as it was then known) had long been a major city. After independence in 1960, the city started to swell further, and the growing pains associated with its increasing population culminated in political unrest in 2009. It still faces huge challenges – corruption and the lingering political uncertainty – that continue to hold it back, much to the frustration of its people. Today, the city remains the seat of power, where international organisations, businesses and money mingle, making it unlike anywhere else in Madagascar. 

Airlines that fly to Antananarivo

Air France, Turkish Airlines, Air Austral, Airlink, Air Mauritius, Comores Aviation, Kenya Airways, South African Airways and Air Madagascar.

All foreign visitors require an entry visa. Based on 2019 fees, it cost 35€ for a 30 day visa and 40€ for a 60 day visa. It was easy to apply for a visa on arrival. Fill in the health declaration form first, then the visa form, pay at the counter in either USD or euros. Next go to the immigration official who will print out a sticker with QR code and paste it in your passport. It was a fast process and most of the people on our flight from Reunion Island were getting visa on arrival as well.