Magical Morocco

Written by Donovan November 18, 2013 Category: Africa, Morocco Tags: , , , Comments
 mosque Koutoubia
 getting lost in the souk
 pinkish-red buildings common in Marrakech
 beautiful Atlas mountain range
 the main square Djemaa El Fna comes alive at night
 the waterfall at Ourika
 makeshift restaurants set up along the river
 the numerous orange juice drink stalls at the square
 the grand King Hassan II mosque in Casablanaca
the mosque sits beside the mighty Atlantic ocean, a nice relaxing afternoon

Marrakech is known as the ‘red city’ due to the colour of the buildings here which are either painted red or made of bricks. It is undoubtedly Morocco’s most fascinating and touristic city. It is a land of antiquity which ones to life through vibrant colours, spicy scents and the chatter of a thousand local shopkeepers saying ‘konnichiwa’ to me. Marrakech is dubbed the ‘jewel of the south’ because it is surrounded by the breathtaking Atlas Mountains, menara gardens lush olive grooves and lagoon, with dusty rose pink buildings everywhere you turn. And these splendours will keep you enchanted as you navigate the lively chaos of the city.

The best way to explore Marrakech is to get lost in the labyrinth of souks at Djemaa el fna square, with an expanse of bustling bazaars set amid the ancient city walls of the medina. There are souks sprawling off the sides of crowded alleyways where you can browse through carpets, spices, woodworks, souvenirs and trinkets that you can possible imagine. However, do not stop and gaze at a product for too long, otherwise the irritating shopkeeper will hassle you to buy it. Apparently window shopping is non-existent here, it’s either you buy it or don’t look at the product at all. At night, the medina becomes livier with food stalls set up in the square, selling all kinds of Moroccan food, from soup to grillades and tagines. There are also belly dancers, snake charmers and other street buskers to entertain you while you’re having dinner, but be prepared to pay them should you take a photo of them, even from afar.

Casablanca may be the cosmopolitan, industrial and economic heart of Morocco (and its largest city), but it is one of the less endearing of the country’s sights. There is only a small, unassuming medina and a traffic-congested ville nouvelle. The only appealing thing to me was the awe-inspiring Hassan II Mosque which is the largest mosque in Morocco and it was so tranquil to sit on the breakwaters of the Atlantic Ocean and admiring the mosque from a distance. It has a beautiful interior complete with water features, a roof that opens to the sky, a huge hammam in the basement (not in use), and beautiful tile work. 

After five days in Morocco, I have learnt not to speak to over-friendly strangers because they just want to earn your tourist money. At the bus station in Marrakech, a guy told me that there were no buses to Asni for the day and recommended me to take a taxi. He showed me an empty booth with a sign to Asni, but I did not believe him and walked around the bus station to enquire. Then he brought me to his friend who had bus tickets to Asni, and I had to pay him 5dh for ‘coffee money’ on top of the ticket price. In Asni this ‘tour guide’ pretended to be so nice and friendly, leading me to the minivans which went to Imlil. He was speaking French to me and he even knew the department number of Grenoble, saying he has friends there (ya bullshit). I knew the minivan ride was 10dh from online info, but he told me it was 20dh because it was the weekend and added another 10dh saying it was for his guiding fees when I made it clear from the start I did not need his help.  I saw the other passengers paying only 10dh and felt shortchanged. On another note, I was nearly pickpocketed twice, once while boarding a crowded bus in Marrakech and another time while walking past a quiet neighborhood in Casa to the train station. Usually taxis can only accommodate four passengers, but here they will squeeze in six (two in front and four at the back) and will ensure that it’s full beside setting off.  Nevertheless I am glad to have met Simo, my very hospitable couchsurf host who introduced me to the real Moroccan culture and made me feel welcome in his city.